The Complete Bat House Guide

A well-placed bat house can attract a colony of 50–300 bats to your property — delivering natural mosquito control, pollination support, and nightly wildlife watching. This guide covers everything: choosing the right bat house, where to put it, how to mount it, and what to do when bats don't show up.

Why Get a Bat House?

Bats eat mosquitoes — a lot of them. A single little brown bat can consume up to 1,000 mosquitoes per hour. A colony of 100 bats eliminates millions of insects over a summer. No chemicals, no noise, no effort.

• Bats pollinate plants, including many fruit and agave crops
• Bat guano is one of the most effective natural fertilizers available
• Supporting bats helps offset dramatic population declines from White-Nose Syndrome, which has killed over 90% of some species

Choosing the Right Bat House

Size matters — bigger is always better

Small, single-chamber bat houses rarely attract bats. Bats prefer warm, tight roosting spaces in large groups. Look for:

• Multi-chamber designs with at least 2–3 roosting chambers
• Minimum 20" tall × 16" wide exterior dimensions
• 3/4" to 1" chamber spacing — bats need snug spaces to thermoregulate
• Roughened interior surfaces — bats need grip to roost comfortably

Which bat house is right for your property?

• Small yard or first-time buyer: Single-chamber bat house (holds 50 bats)
• Most backyards: Two-chamber bat house (holds 75 bats)
• Serious mosquito control: Three-chamber bat house (holds 200 bats)
• Large property or farm: Big Bat Barn (holds 150 bats, barn-style design)

Where to Put a Bat House

Sun exposure

Bats are thermal regulators — they need their house to stay warm. The exterior should receive 6–8 hours of direct sun per day. South or southeast-facing is ideal in most of North America. In hot climates (zone 8+), east-facing avoids overheating.

Height

Mount your bat house at least 12 feet off the ground — 15–20 feet is better. Low mounting exposes bats to predators. Low = no bats.

Proximity to water

Bats drink on the wing. A bat house within 1/4 mile of a water source (pond, stream, lake) significantly increases occupancy rates.

Away from lights

Bats are nocturnal. Don't mount your bat house near porch lights or street lights. Light = no bats.

How to Mount a Bat House

On a building: Best option. Mount to the south or southeast wall of a house, barn, or shed. Buildings retain and radiate heat, which bats love.

On a pole: Use a 4×4 or 4×6 wooden post, at least 15 feet tall. Two bat houses back-to-back on a single pole is the highest-occupancy setup.

On a tree: Possible, but trees provide shade and predator access. Results are significantly worse.

Why Bats Haven't Moved In (Troubleshooting)

Less than 2 years: Be patient. Occupancy often takes 1–2 full seasons.

House is too cold: Add a second coat of dark exterior paint. The house needs to reach 80–100°F internally on warm days.

Too low or shaded: Remount at a higher point with full sun. Most common fix.

Predator perch nearby: Remove any branches a snake or raccoon could use to reach the entry slot.

Wood is too smooth: Bats need grip. Roughen interior surfaces or upgrade to a properly built unit.

Bat House FAQ

When is the best time to put up a bat house?
Early spring — March to April in most of North America. Bats scout for new roost sites as soon as they emerge from hibernation.

How do I know if bats are using it?
Look for guano (small dark droppings) directly below the entry slot. You’ll also hear chattering at dusk during summer.

Do I need multiple bat houses?
One well-placed house works fine. Two back-to-back on a single pole is the proven highest-occupancy setup.

Will bats damage my house?
No. Bats in a bat box present zero structural risk to your home.

Are bats dangerous?
Bats very rarely interact with humans. Don't handle bats bare-handed and you have nothing to worry about.

Ready to Get Started?

Shop All Bat Houses | The Big Bat Barn (large properties) | Owl Box (rodent control)